Goodhood Store

 

 

 

 

 

We believe you can explore clothing design from an anthropologist’s perspective, and view it as a sum of parts: available technology, plus practical requirement, plus the sign of the times. The key lies in this final, cultural element, and nowhere is this more succinctly presented than in the graphic tee: a blank canvas on which you can present your beliefs, associations, or attitudes. Nowhere are those affiliations more easily expressed than in music and band tees. 

 

Jazz holds a fascinating place in history. A major genre of the 20th Century, particularly to the African American communities of the United States of America, the original jazz tees often focus on the individual. It’s the rare photo of Trane or Satchmo on stage at the hottest joint in Midtown. Or it’s a selection of standout graphics from a West Coast festival, album cover, magazine or who knows what. Either way, it’s a whole other world compared to the humble band tee, and it’s fascinating to dive into.

 

In a time where your least favourite celebrity wears your most favourite band tee, but doesn’t actually know the band, it’s surely more important than ever to remember that every expressive element of ourselves is intrinsically linked to culture, and that culture is intrinsically linked to every expressive element of ourselves. As we’ve said before, there is NO such thing as just a t-shirt.

 

 

The More Than Just A T-Shirt Volume II: The Vibration Continues exhibition runs in-store until Monday 14th May. Check out the vintage t-shirts below, as well as the collaboration, an exclusive interview with Teejerker and a mix from Gilles Peterson. 

 

 

 

 


 

 

The Vibration Continues

 

We explore the story behind Teejerker's vintage tees and the jazz legends that adorn them... 

 

 

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1981 playboy jazz festival

The Playboy Festival is now a staple in Jazz, celebrating the genre by featuring both established and upcoming artists. Held in the Hollywood Bowl, numerous jazz legends of every era have played the festival, from Miles Davis and Louis Armstrong to Kenny G, who received his first major exposure at the festival. This super soft and worn in tee comes from the 1981 festival, just the fourth time the event was held. Incredible front and back print on this shirt, a couple of tiny holes to be expected from a 37-year-old piece.

 

 

 

 

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1986 new orleans jazz festival

The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival has been held annually since 1970 and celebrates the indigenous music and culture of New Orleans and Louisiana. It encompasses a vast array of styles outside of traditional jazz, including bluegrass, R&B, and gospel across 14 stages and tents. This t-shirt comes from their 1986 edition, which featured B.B. King, Marcia Bell and Jerry Lee Lewis, amongst others.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DIZZY GILESPIE - 1989 CHICAGO JAZZ FESTIVAL

Dizzy Gillespie was one of the greatest Jazz trumpeters of all time and a major figure in the development of bebop in the 1940s. In a league of his own, he was a highly innovative player that pioneered adding layers and layers of complex harmony, something previously unheard of in the genre. Critical to bebop's emergence into the mainstream, he was also involved in the Afro-Cuban music movement of the late 1940s. This 29-year-old tee comes from the Saturday night of the 1989 Chicago Jazz Festival where Dizzy Gillespie's United Nation Orchestra headlined. The Chicago Jazz Festival was organised shortly after Duke Ellington's death in 1974 in order to honour him, and quickly became an annual event attracting crowds of up to 30,000. With awesome print on both sides, the shirt is soft and faded with no damage. 

 

 

 

 

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JOHN COLTRANE - EARLY 90S AFRICA JAZZ
 

John Coltrane, one of the great jazz saxophonists of the mid-20th Century, was heavily influenced by spirituality throughout his life. Believing that both Eastern and Western philosophies had equal sincerity and standing, he came to explore many strands of religion. Sadly, he died of liver cancer age 40, in 1967. However, his spiritual legacy firmly lived on. Numerous groups sought to commemorate Coltrane and in 1977, 10 years after his death, a collective of musicians organised the John Coltrane Memorial Concert. An African Orthodox Church was even established in his name, with Coltrane the God figure. The John Coltrane Memorial Human Outreach was another such group affiliated with the musician's spiritual legacy, and produced this t-shirt in the late '80s / early '90s, presumably in reference to Africa / Brass, Coltrane's 8th studio album.



 

 

 

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MILES DAVIS - EARLY 90S IN CONCERT

This shirt comes from arguably the biggest name in Jazz and the man responsible for the legendary 1959 album 'Kind of Blue'. The frontman of jazz to many, his five-decade career saw him pioneer numerous developments in the genre, and stay at the forefront of the scene. Rolling Stone magazine labelled him "the most revered jazz trumpeter of all time, not to mention one of the most important musicians of the 20th century." But that's something we all already knew. Single stitch old Fruit of the Loom shirt from the early 90s with minimal wear, featuring Miles playing amongst a bold front graphic and nice backprint to match.

 

 

 

 

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MILES DAVIS - EARLY 90S PHILIP BURKE
 

Philip Burke may not be a name that's instantly recognisable to many, but anyone that read Rolling Stone magazine with any degree of regularity during the '90s would instantly recognise his vivid caricatures chronicling contemporary musicians. His work wasn't confined to musicians though, he could be found documenting the social and political mood of the time across the pages of Vanity Fair, Vogue, The New Yorker, and a whole host of other publications. Hailing from the early '90s, this t-shirt features one of Burke's vivid caricatures, this time of Miles Davis holding his trumpet and with a focused look on his face.

 

 

 

 

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JAZZ MAGAZINE - EARLY 90s 'down beat'

Founded in 1934, Down Beat 'Jazz, Blues & Beyond' is the oldest and Jazz publication. It's the go-to for the genre and has, since 1952 run an annual Hall of Fame highlighting readers' and critics' choice of jazz greats. This gently worn and faded tee comes from the early 90s and features a backprint of the legendary Thelonious Monk. 

 

 

 

 

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SUN RA - EARLY 90S OMNIVERSE
 

Composer, bandleader and synthesizer player Sun Ra is legendary, known for his experimental music, cosmic performances and prolific output. He was a pioneer of Afrofuturism and was seminal in the development of spiritual and avant-garde jazz. In his mind, "music isn't material. Music is spiritual." Although he had limited mainstream success, he pioneered styles of free improvisation and was an early adopter of electronic keyboards and synths. Perhaps the rarest tee in the entire Bohemia collection, finding a vintage Sun Ra tee is beyond difficult. This Omniverse shirt comes from the early 1990s and pays homage to the 1979 album of the same name. Incredible front print and back detail, printed on a gently worn and faded Oneita shirt. 

 

 

 

 

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LOUIS ARMSTRONG - 1990 WHEN IT'S SLEEPY TIME DOWN SOUTH

Featuring one of the most recognisable voices in Jazz, this 1990 illustrated Louis Armstrong shirt comes from Jazzman, a longtime menswear store in Madison, Wisconsin. When It's Sleepy Time Down South was a song originally written for a stage production called Under A Virginia Moon in 1930. The play was billed as a comedy about life in the Deep South and the lyrics, written by Leon René, were based on his memories of growing up in Louisiana in the 1910s. It was used in 2 films in 1931 but gained popularity when Armstrong heard it when he was invited for dinner at René's house after a gig in Culver City, CA. Eventually, it became a jazz standard, subsequently covered by an array of artists including Billie Holliday.

 

 

 

 

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BILLIE HOLIDAY - 1990 NYC 49

 

Billie is one of the most well-known women in Jazz. One of the seminal jazz vocalists and singer-songwriters, she was strongly influenced by jazz instrumentalists and was known for her improvisational skills and vocal delivery. She gained mainstream success in the 1930s and 1940s with hits such as Strange Fruit and Lover Man, but despite her almost 30-year career, a lot of her seminal influence was only truly recognised after her untimely death at age 44. She had led a troubled life throughout which significant drug and alcohol abuse had featured. This soft and faded tee from 1990 features a photograph of Holiday performing in New York in 1949 by legendary jazz photographer Herman Leonard.

 

 

 

 

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CHARLES MINGUS - 1990 CAFE BOHEMIA

Known as the Angry Man of Jazz, Charles Mingus holds a legendary place in the genre's history. This 27-year-old faded and soft  Mingus shirt features an iconic photo of the man with his double bass in Café Bohemia, New York, shot by renowned Jazz photographer Bob Parent. Mingus at the Bohemia was an album recorded during the live concert in December 1955 and contained all the elements of the signature Mingus "Jazz Workshop" - a concert that was first and foremost a live experiment. Distinctly different to the mainstream Bop of 1955, the recording showed Mingus veering off in a different direction, a mix of Duke Ellington's big-band backbone with limbs of improvisational freedom exploring mood, augmentation, the history of Black workers in the USA, and the spirit of Thelonious Monk.

 

 

 

 

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CHARLIE PARKER - 1990 BIRD
 

Charlie 'Yardbird' Parker was a Jazz soloist instrumental in the development of bebop. Both an alto and tenor saxophonist, he introduced revolutionary harmonic ideas to the genre and was highly versatile in his sound. He was an avid practitioner of contrafact, the layering original compositions over existing jazz standards, a practice still used today. Sadly, Parker was a troubled man. Like many in the jazz scene, he struggled with depression and heroin addiction throughout his life. Through missing shows, he was deemed unreliable and he had to resort to busking on the streets of New York to make a living and attempted suicide twice. Some of his most respected recordings were produced in the depths of his troubles. By the time he was in his early thirties, his body had taken a beating from years of substance misuse and in March 1955 he died age 34, with the coroner mistaking his body for that of 50-60 year old.

 

 

 

 

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1991 PLAYBOY JAZZ FESTIVAL

The Playboy Festival is now a staple in Jazz, celebrating the genre by featuring both established and upcoming artists. Held in the Hollywood Bowl, numerous jazz legends of every era have played the festival, from Miles Davis and Louis Armstrong to Kenny G, who received his first major exposure at the festival. From the 13th annual Playboy Jazz festival, this tee features an awesome early 90s style graphic with a font to match. Gently worn in and faded.

 

 

 

 

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ART BLAKEY - 1992 PARIS '58

One of the jazz drum greats, Art Blakey worked with an array of renowned bebop musicians before forming the Jazz Messengers with Horace Silver in the mid-1950s. He was associated with for the Jazz Messengers for the next 35 years, and "played with a mixture of abandon and precise control", turning pieces into novels with layers of texture and tension. A true original, he was revered by his contemporaries for his instantly-recognisable sound. Dedicated to the cause, he was a figurehead in the scene and a mentor to many. He was even revered for keeping the jazz scene alive when it was in danger of dying out in the late 1970s / early 1980s. The gently worn and faded tee from 1992 features a Herman Leonard photo of Blakey in Paris in 1958.

 

 

 

 

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DUKE ELLINGTON - 1993 HERMAN LEONARD



Herman Leonard, although not a musician himself, was synonymous with the jazz world during the Big Band era. In 1948 his passion for the genre took him to Greenwich Village, New York, where he set up a studio. Offering to shoot publicity shots for clubs in return for free admission, he struck up a friendship with many jazz greats, including Charlie Parker, Miles Davis, and Louis Armstrong. As a result, he spent the next 25 years creating some of the most iconic and intimate portraits in the history of music, portraits that captured the essence of jazz itself. Whilst synonymous with the Big Band era of jazz, Ellington labelled himself and his band 'beyond category', a liberation from the formal constraints of genre. Widely considered a pivotal figure in jazz history, he was active from 1914 all the way through to 1974 and was easily the master of leading a jazz orchestra. He wrote over 1000 compositions over his career, with many eventually becoming standards.

 

 

 

 

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THELONIOUS MONK - 1993 INT. JAZZ PIANO COMPETITION

 

Thelonious was one of the most influential pianists in Jazz, famous for his unique improvisational style. He held a distinct look, which would frequently feature hats, sunglasses, and suits in combination, and was known to get up from the piano and dance during his routine whilst other members of his band would continue playing. He went on to become the second most recorded jazz composer, after Duke Ellington. Following his death in 1982, his son founded the Thelonious Monk Institute of Jazz in 1986. This t-shirt comes from the 1993 International Jazz Piano Competition held in the Kennedy Center, Washington DC. It has worn and faded beautifully with some cracking to the print and bleach markings on the back.

 

 

 

 

 

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JOHN COLTRANE - 1994 HEAVEN SMILES

Awesome almost-all-over print John Coltrane shirt from 1994 produced by Heaven Smiles in San Francisco. Vibrant butterfly detail on the back, printed on a single stitch AllSport shirt. The tee is faded and worn in, with some mild discolouration.

 

 

 

 

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LOUIS ARMSTRONG - 1995 HOUSE AND ARCHIVES
 

In 1991 Queens College, City University of New York began to create Louis Armstrong Archives, in order to preserve the legacy of one of Jazz's greatest artists. The then-president of Queens College, Dr. Shirley Strum Kenny, was quoted in New York Times in 1987 saying that what was missing in the numerous biographies of Armstrong was a complete picture, "a sense of the man's personality." This, she hinted, would change within the next few years. The college had acquired a trove of Armstrong memorabilia including journals, writings, and unreleased recordings that had never before been seen. This 1995 t-shirt features Armstrong's signature along with a photograph, commemorating the Queen's archives that are still open today.

 

 

 

 

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MAX ROACH - 1995 MICHAEL WILDERMAN

A pioneer of bebop, Max Roach is considered one of the most important drummers in history, working with all the Jazz greats during his illustrious career including Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Parker, and Charles Mingus. He was one of the first drummers to play in the bebop style, and he pioneered new ideas of musical time that have been utilised ever since. Stan Levey, another pioneering American jazz drummer, commented on Roach's importance to the Washington Post upon his death in 2007 saying "I came to realize that, because of him, drumming no longer was just time, it was music." The gently worn and faded tee from 1995 features a photo of Roach by Jazz photographer Michael Wilderman.

 

 

 

 

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MILES DAVIS - 1997 RAYMOND HOWELL
 

Raymond Howell was a self-taught artist that was born in Oakland, CA. He spent much of his childhood in foster homes but eventually became a teacher. Eventually, he became best known for his vivid paintings and prints of famous jazz musicians and African American culture. As one of the greatest jazz musicians of all time, Miles Davis had many artistic interpretations made of him. Here he is depicted in a particularly abstract manner, on a t-shirt that's over two decades old.

 

 

 

 

 

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JOHN COLTRANE - 1999 TRANE

Founded in 1934, Down Beat 'Jazz, Blues & Beyond' is the oldest and Jazz publication. It's the go-to for the genre and has, since 1952 run an annual Hall of Fame highlighting readers' and critics' choice of jazz greats. This gently worn and faded tee comes from the early 90s and features a backprint of the legendary Thelonious Monk. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

GOODHOOD X TEEJERKER

 

And if all the rare jazz tees weren’t enough, we’ve gone and created our own. We’ve made an exclusive, limited-edition graphic tee featuring all the jazz greats presented in the exhibition, available now.

 

 

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 BUY

 

 

 


 

 

GILLES PETERSON'S
JOURNEY THROUGH JAZZ

 


In an exclusive Good Vibes mix, esteemed London selector and Brownswood label manager Gilles Peterson takes us on a journey to the outer reaches of the jazz universe...

 

 

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971 words WITH TEEJERKER

 

 

For those that don’t know, can you explain what Teejerker is and what you do?

So, Teejerker is a brand committed to bringing the best vintage band/music t-shirts together from all over the world into one place. We drew inspiration from the best record stores, such as Reckless Records in Soho, London, and applied their level and quality of curation to vintage tees. Almost all the pieces are at least twenty years old and span a wide variety of musical styles. Crucially, we focus on bands and artists that really defined their genres, making a mark on music history.

 

 

What's your favourite t-shirt in this collection and why?

That's tough, I could probably narrow it down to two - I really like the Bob Parent photo of Charles Mingus at Cafe Bohemia when he’s smoking next to his double bass so that’s got to be one. Because of the rarity of the piece and how stoked I was to find it, I think the Sun Ra Omniverse tee is my other favourite. As well as loving the design and cosmic references Su Ra uses, I had a list of artists I didn’t think I’d be able to find which included Sun Ra, so to get this one in a trade with a US dealer was super exciting.

 

 

For people not familiar with jazz music, where should you begin?

Well, the Jazz legends featured in this collection are definitely a good start - arguably the two biggest albums in the genre are Coltrane’s A Love Supreme and Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue, so spin those first. A couple of personal favourites (and artists I’d love to find tees from) are Alice Coltrane - Journey in Satchidananda from 1971. And, probably my favourite, Pharaoh Sanders’ 1969 masterpiece ‘Karma’. I’ve also recently been listening to Rabih Abou-Khalil’s album Blue Camel, fusing Jazz with a more traditional Arabic sound which is pretty cool. 

 

What’s your take on people who wear music t-shirts without knowing the artist? 

It’s an interesting one because this is so rife, as is the amount of brands using music references in their graphics. I think the selection we offer does seem to attract more buyers who do know the artists rather than not, but people are free to wear whatever they like so it’s all good. From a purist perspective though, I do think it’s a bit of a shame that the price of a My Bloody Valentine shirt triples, and potentially prices out true fans because Kanye wears one once.

 

What’s the holy grail in vintage t-shirts?

The Cro-Mags Best Wishes 1989 tour shirt seems to be up there, it’s definitely a top want for the Hardcore kids. I’ve had that shirt once and a dude traded me ten awesome shirts for it. The late '80s and early '90s Shoegaze stuff seems to just be getting more and more desirable too. If an original Spacemen 3, Slowdive or My Bloody Valentine tee comes up expect to spend up to a grand to get your hands on it. 

 

 

How do you tell a fake tee from a legit tee?

So there’s a difference here in what people would consider fake - first of all, there are unofficial tees, known as bootlegs which can be of age but just not licensed by bands/labels. There’s a pretty big market for bootleg shirts and some are a lot cooler than the official ones, I personally have no problem with these and think they just add to the history of the scene. What I would consider fake is a shirt which is made to look older than it is and sold as an original, there are some geeky ways you can spot these shirts like knowing the history of the tags as well as how sleeves and hems should be stitched according to age.

 

What is the most random scenario/person you've encountered when trying to obtain a t-shirt? 

I was in San Francisco last year picking up a load of tees and bumped into Henry Rollins buying pineapple juice in the shop below my hostel, he seemed pretty pissed off to be noticed to be honest but I had to say hello. Earlier this year in New York a dude came to my hotel with a hundred or so tees, we got some strange looks from the staff when we were sorting through all the obscene Black Metal stuff in the middle of the reception. 

 

What is your research process? Do you go looking for a specific t-shirt or do you go after the artist first?

More and more now people come to us with personal collections which they want to sell which helps a lot. In terms of sourcing, it depends on the artist, for the bigger bands with loads of merch floating about it’s much more about the specific design and the wear to the shirt. The likes of Metallica, Pearl Jam etc. have such a big back catalogue you can be fussy with the tees you want to stock, whereas if you come across a more obscure artist like Drop Nineteens or Chapterhouse, any vintage tee of theirs is going to be super desirable regardless of the design. 

 

What do you think makes a good jazz t-shirt?

I like how a lot of the Jazz tees really focus on photography, often the graphic is a 50-year-old black and white photo of an artist playing, with the location and photographer referenced. It’s cool to see photographers such as Bob Parent and Herman Leonard who immersed themselves in a genre having their works credited decades later. Some of the graphic pieces are really special too and can make for an awesome tee, like the early 90s Miles shirt from this collection with the Philip Burke illustration, that blew me away when I found it. 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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